Tuesday, October 2, 2007

Albania, yo!

So here I am in albania.

Pretty much everyone told me not to come here, though, having crossed the border I dont know why.

I left Podgorica yesterday a bit late after running all over town trying to get basic business done after dealing with yet another frustrating sunday. I had one particularly scary episode trying to convert my Bosnian Marks (called, hillariously, the Konvertable Mark). Bank after bank sent me somewhere else - nobody wanted to touch the stuff (literally) - as if it was contagious and handling it would transmit civil war or islam or something to them. The central bank sent me to their affiliate, who's front desk man flat out lied to me (oh yeah, their man called and said that they sent you to the wrong place - yeah, it was a woman who sent me over, bucko). I was starting to sweat a bit because I still had a hundred euros worth of the stuff and that would be a pretty nasty hit to the pocketbook. Finally I found a bank who took them, without even batting an eyelash, and the emergency was off. I had similar fun finding a bike shop (spare parts to carry into supposedly 'postapocalyptic' albania), and a map of albania too. Finally suceeded on the bike parts, but not on the map. Everyone I asked looked at me like I was crazy - why would you want a map of albania?

Hit the road at about 1:30 and was making good time at first. Passed another bike tourer heading the opposite direction and stopped to chat for a bit - she was a Californian looping the former Yugoslav countries. It was nice to compare notes with someone else on the road.

Things slowed up a bit though when I hit the Skadarsko, the large lake that forms a natural border between montenegro and albania. I decided to follow the lakeside road rather than the major road that cuts all the way to the coast. Its marked as a park on my map. I should, of course, know by now that how things look on the map is 95% of the time absolutely nothing what they look like in reality but I learned once again. I was treated to an afternoon of nasty mountain climing on windy one lane roads. The view was indeed spectacular, but the going was slow. Finally, about 45 minutes before the light started to fade I hit this wierd little plateau/ valley between mountains, about 15 km long, andfilled with luch vegetation and flat terrain (versus the rock farm that the previous several hours had been). Counting my blessings I found a hidden and apparently unused farmer's field, and set my camp up just in time for the light to fade and to eat my dinner in the dark.

Up early this morning, and booked off the last few mountin km, before being treated to a long and fast descent to the albanian border.

It reminds me of some of the places I saw in southeast asia - busy, noisy, alittle crazy and not so filled with outsiders. There are lots of cars and scooters, and, yes, horses pulling carts.

This is the email that someone I was lucky enough to get in contact with who is currently doing the same route as me by motorcycle sent me, so you'll have and idea of what's next for me:

I just traveled the road you are discussing for the second time. i travel on a small 200cc motorcycle and i have seen several bicyclist doing so. The road out of montenegro is tricky to find. it is a small backroad, not much traveled and it is fine for a bicycle. the road into montenegro is quite good, as you know, but as you get closer to albania it becomes rutted and in poor repair, but you should not have a problem. From the border to Skhoder the road is acceptable, but busy. As you may know, cars were outlawed in albania by the communists, so they saw little point in investing in infrastructure, but that is now changing. The problem is that Albanians only recently learned how to drive, so you must be careful. As always, stay to the right a smuch as you can and check your mirror frequently for motorists wanting to pass. Albanians toot their horns seemingly at random, and you have to get used to that. The road from the montenegro border to Tirrane is not bad, but it is busy and there is a lot of garbage around, and they burn it and it is pretty disgusting. You wil wonder why you came, but keep the faith.... you wil be rewarded. From Durres southward the road is now excellent. they just built it last year. It is a smoth, fast road. However, as you get closer to Fier they are stil working on the road and it is pitted and rutted. often, due to cinstruction, traffic stacks up so be careful. In Fier, make a right at the traffic circle with the sign that says "Appolonia". you priobably are planningthis already, but it is a very interesting site of an old Roman city. it is about 8km outside the city. the road is pitted and ugly, as are many of the roads in albania. Try not to stop in fier for the night. it is an ugly city and locals tell me it is not very safe. Continuing to Vlore the road is also in poor shape, until you reach Vlore. I stayed at the hotel Pavaresi.. a new hotel that is a little above what I am used to but my 35 euro room was extremenly luxurious. It is at the foot of the main drag, just before you turn south to go out of town. It is next to a restaurant called the Britania. From here your ride wil be very scenic. The road is excellent, having been built last year. it is two lane and very smooth. About 20km out you will reach the tiny town of orikum. There are supposedly ruins there, and there's even a sign that points the way, but after two years of trying I never was able to find them, Now comes the hard part.... right out of Orikim you begin the climb up the Llogarosa pass... a spectacular ride, but not for the faint of heart. The road is excellent, but it is steep and there are many hairpin turns. The area near the top is a national park. At the top comes your reward.... you wil see stunning views of a 12km white sand beach. I cannot recal the name of it and i do not have my map with me right now. it starts with a "P", I think. If you like remote beaches do stop there. Now you wil have a desecent of many kilometers and it is all scenic. At the bottom you wil see a sign marked "Dhermi", 1.5km. This is a great beach area, but although i intended to stop there for a two day stay, I found most places closed. If you walk down the beach 1km through some olive groves there is another great beach. Unfortunately, the great road has only been finished to about 2km or so above Dhermi, then it goes back to the rutted unkept roads for which albania is famous. There are survey crews out there now so they are working on extending it. The next town you come to is Himare, a sleepy little port on a crescent shaped bay. this is where the Ionian meets the Adriatic. it is said that Odysseus harbored his ships here in the 5th century B,C, there is a nice litle hotel called the Hotel Joni.. about 20 euros for a room with the balcony over the sea. Continuing on the road gets worse and is rutted and pitted. there is anice beach a few km out of there called Llaman.... a small stretch of nice beach. Continuing on you come to the fortress of ali pasha, wel worth a visit. be careful not to get lost inside like i did the other day!! There is a nice cove there that is a nice place to camp if that is what you are doing. Continuing on you wil come to a town with a long stretch of undeveloped beach called Queparo. there really isnt a road to the beach... one local questioned why anyone would build such a road... there is nothing to go to but the ocean (it then dawned on me why tourism isnt doing so well here). Next you come to the town of Busho (?), also a good beach. remember.. beaches here are dirty.. no one cleans them like they do in greece and Italy. Eventually you come to sarande, wher I am now. this is worth a few days. Its a great place to rest and the ruins of Butrint are 25km south and wel worth a visit.It is a Roman city that was aresort area for wealthy Romams. the ruins are extensive. If you dont want to ride, there are frequent buses. i shoul;d say that as you get closer to sarande the road has been repaired, but not replaced and it is acceptable,and much better than the other parts, but beware of these crazy albanians who only recently learned to drive and who toot theuir horns seemingly at random.I stay at the hotel delfini.. a nice family place. My 20 euro room is super clean, has a private bath, and a balcony over the sea, only a few meters away. To eat cheaply, there is a Greek taberna on the promenade that sells gyros and meat dishes at very low prices. I am always watching my money. Next comes the road to Greece. that is really rough. if you do not want to stop in sarande, just before you get here, take the turn to the left that says "Gjorkaster".. that will eventually take you to greece. i wil be on that road toimorrow. last year I drive it and it was rutted and pitted and very bad.there is a lot of up and down climbing for you on a bike. There is also a lot of climbing involved. now here is the good news.... when you get to greece the roads are great.. nice and smoooth and very well signed.I hope this helps.
Robert Spano
redding, california USA (in Albania now)


Still cant seem to get my pictures off my memory card, though this is by far the nicest internet cafe I have been in for a while. Seems like the poorer the country the better their internet facilities... perhaps most people dont have it at home?

I'll leave you with something that's been stuck in my head for a couple of days on the road now..


(really, one of the best movies ever)

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